Purpose: To get some control and maneuverability out of that waveblaster.  Unmodified steering will leave you side-swept in the whitewash.  You need to modify your steering to ensure optimum control of your blaster so that you can turn as sharp as

you need to turn in order to line yourself up perfect at a moment's impulse, to ride that wave, roll off that wave or recover from a wipe out.

Observations: This mod applies to Superjets too.  Only difference is that Superjets come with a pre-drilled steering mod at the turn plate so you only have to move that out and then do the bottom half of the work.

Intended for: *Everyone*!  Why not?  You have nothing to lose.  It will make the ski slightly less stable but that's a good thing.  If you are concerned with stability, I'd recommend a nice three-seater.

Supplies: M6 tap, optional.  M6 bolt, nut, and split lock washer.  I forget which size drill bits but line them up with your current steering pivot holes after you pull the pivot piece out.  You also need some thin aluminum bar stock.  I used some angle bar stock from Home Depot and cut it to fit.

Time: 60min

Process:

1. Remove steering cable from steering bracket beneath hood and remove steering pivot.
2. Cut a piece of aluminum bar stock similar to the one in the pic.  It doesn't have to be pretty.
   1. Optional:  Spend your dear sweet time and drill a new hole at the very end of the existing steering bracket.  I'd recommend a good Kobalt bit for doing this because stainless is a beotch to drill through.  Skip the next one step if this is what you did.
3. The aluminum bar stock needs a hole through which to bolt it to the existing steering bracket.  It also needs a hole just barely beyond the reach of the steering bracket through which to put the steering pivot (tap, if you want).  Put the pivot in first, then line up and drill the other hole so you can run a bolt to mount it.
4. Put the steering cable back on.  Done with that part.
   
5. Remove ride plate.  Not required, but it will make the next step easier.
6. Remove the steering cable and remove the steering nozzle.  Use a cutoff wheel or something to notch the middle of the sides of the turn nozzle so that it won't bind on either side against the exit nozzle.  Do just a little bit at first.
7. Remove the steering pivot piece.  Drill a new hole just inside the old one.  Tap it for an m6 if you want.  Put the pivot piece back in.
8. Reattach the turn nozzle and turn cable.  Go ahead and realign the steering by moving the pivot mounting pieces in or out at both the top and bottom ends.  Make sure it's all even at the neutral stance.
9. Test the throw side-to-side.  You will notice two things.
   1. One, the steering cable might bind on itself due to too much throw.  This will more than likely be the case if you did the bracket extension method rather than redrill the existing bracket.  But this might not be obvious yet if...
   2. Two, the steering nozzle may bind against the exit nozzle.  So you didn't notch enough out and you need to take it off and try again on whichever or both sides.
10. Once you get the nozzle to quit binding, you need to determine if the steering cable is bottoming out before the steering stop at the hood is.  Again, that'd only really happen if you used the extension bracket at the top part.  If the cable is maxing out, you will need to move it back to the original position on the turn nozzle and realign it at the neutral position.
11. You should have some pretty killer throw in your steering now.  Take her for a spin.  If all is good, you may or may not want to consider jbwelding the bracket in place up at the hood side since it's really only held on by one bolt.
12. Now check out the mod for d-cutting your ride plate!  It's not a critical mod for a Blaster but it definitely complements all this work you just did and I find it helps put my ski on more of a rail for greater control in my turns.  Don't believe any of the rumors that it adds "porpoising" because it 99% does not.